Big waves pound the California Coast about once a decade. Last Saturday, when the stern of the Cement Ship broke off, and the SF Bar was closed, was that "once in a decade."
Maverick's pioneer surfer Jeff Clark drove down from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz in the morning looking for a place to paddle out. Said Clark, "Biggest swell since 2001, I saw waves breaking a mile off the beach all the way down.”
Although some may argue, paddling out a mile in 20-40 foot surf to catch a wave is basically not possible.
Not that some didn't try. Shawn Dollar caught a wave with a 20-foot face, electrifying the crowd gathered along East Cliff Drive at Pleasure Point. But everyone else who tried was washed unceremoniously back to shore.
“I’ve never seen waves that big at Pleasure Point,” said Jeff Clark.
Veteran big wave surfer Tyler Fox and a group of four friends decided to try something audacious: surf the two miles from Pleasure Point to New Brighton Beach. Fox, a pro big wave surfer, has ridden "Ghost Trees" at Carmel when it was 70 feet, so he knows what it's about.
The five paddled out and into the teeth of one of the afternoon’s larger sets. Said Fox, " “I was farthest out and a set broke another 100 yards beyond me. I got pounded by the first two waves and the third broke my leash.
I was underwater kind of laughing to myself thinking, there is no way I’m going to die at Pleasure Point.”
Three of the five managed to make it out and rode double to triple overhead waves all the way to New Brighton. It took an hour and a half..... Doggies.